Cost · Los Angeles, CA
Wolf Gas Oven Igniter Replacement Cost
If the cooktop lights and the cavity stays cold, begin here rather than with the gas supply: the oven is lit by hardware of its own and that hardware fails on its own schedule. If the oven does light, late, with a thump audible from the next room, stop using it and ring us instead.
| Band | Installed |
|---|---|
| Igniter or spark module | $170–$470 |
| Service call | $89 |
Why a working cooktop proves nothing
The burners on top and the burner in the cavity are lit by separate hardware. A cooktop that sparks and catches everywhere tells you gas is arriving at the appliance, and that is the entire extent of what it tells you. The oven’s own ignition can be finished while every burner above it behaves impeccably.
What is actually wearing out
The part that lights a gas cavity is a consumable. It works hot, on every cycle, for years, and it declines rather than breaking: a longer wait before the burner catches, then a cycle that lights sometimes, then a cavity that never comes up. In the older kitchens around Hancock Park and Pasadena it registers as a Sunday roast running late, not as a breakdown.
Because the decline is gradual, the useful thing to bring to the call is when it changed. Two settings are worth ruling out yourself first: a delayed start left programmed from an earlier cook, and a clean cycle that has not released the door.
What the first band buys here
The igniter, its lead and connector, and the labour of getting at it — the cavity emptied, panelling off, everything back together square. The oven is then taken through a full light-and-hold cycle before anyone leaves, because one that fires on a cold appliance and gives up on the third cycle has not been tested. The $89 comes off the repair the moment you approve it.
Reviews
What owners said after the invoice
One fault, what it turned out to be, what it came to.
4.9/ 5856 reviews
After every bake the cooling fan kept running half the night. He found a thermistor reading warm long after the cavity was cold, and changed it. Simple in the end, but it took two visits to pin down.
Baldwin R.
Ran the clean cycle before guests arrived and the oven died with the door still locked. A blown thermal fuse, plus a latch motor that had given up. He released the door and fitted both parts that afternoon.
Cyril B.
Lower oven would preheat forever and give up short of temperature. The bake element had a blister and a hairline break at the elbow. Replaced from stock, and he checked the upper cavity while the tools were out.
Isabela F.
Two ways in, and nothing to fill out
Say what the machine is doing, and the fault gets named
Have the model number to hand if you can, or just the letters at the front of it — DF, GR, SRT, CG, CI, SO, DO, PW. Those say what you own, and what you own decides which parts travel out with the technician.
$89 service call, flat, credited against an approved repair · line answered 24/7